The city of Gloucester, Massachusetts (pronounced GLOSS-ter) is not merely a popular tourist town just 33 miles from nearby Boston. It's also much more than a thriving artist's colony. The glue that holds Gloucester together, and has for the more 400 years since its founding as a European settlement in the 1600s, is fishing. The town is home to one of the last remaining commercial fishing fleets in the New England states. Is it any wonder that the best restaurants in Gloucester are seafood restaurants?
If you've seen the movie The Perfect Storm, based on events that happened here, you know that this is a small town that takes fishing very seriously. The same applies to their seafood. In fact, someone could make another movie about Gloucester and title it: The Perfect Seafood Restaurant. The only trick would be narrowing it down to just one. For travel guide purposes, let's keep it broad enough to suit multiple tastes, and make it a top three.
#1) The Gull (75 Essex Ave. 978-281-6060)
Almost every single seat at The Gull has a view of the harbor, thanks to the huge floor-to-ceiling glass windows. This is a restaurant where you can see the exact spot your seafood comes from, as you watch the fishing boats and munch on the freshest lobster, crab, and tuna you can imagine. Lunchtime draws lots of locals and tourists alike, all eager for the large portions at fair market prices that The Gull offers. The top choice for lunch is the succulent lobster roll, filled to bursting with chunks of just-caught lobster on a perfect white roll. The fried seafood is equally good, so you may want a batch of clams as an appetizer.
Dinner at The Gull is even more exciting. Those who favor meat with legs can chomp on prime rib or a juicy sirloin, but they will miss out on a national treasure. The whole lobsters are something to write home about, and you can order one simply steamed with butter or stuffed full of fresh shrimp and scallops. The Gull serves a full repertoire of wine, beer, and mixed drinks to accompany your dinner. Time your meal just right and watch the sun set over the harbor for a truly memorable meal.
#2) Halibut Point (289 Main St. 978-281-1900)
This tavern-style restaurant is a local legend for its creamy chowders, made from fresh clams or haddock and served by the cup or bowl. Some prefer the Italian Fish Chowder, which has a nice, spicy bite. A good way to sample the seafood chowder is with the Halibut Point Special, which gets you a cup of chowder, a hamburger, and a cold beer for $10. While the lunch special might get you a taste of the world-class soup, you'll be missing out, though, if you bypass the seafood entrees.
What is most notable at Halibut Point is what they don't have on the menu: anything fried. The philosophy seems to be that if the seafood is this fresh, why would you want to mask the pure, just-caught flavor? Sample the best of the sea in its tastiest form: tuna steaks fresh off the boat, skewered scallops, or daily specials that were probably caught only moments ago. With seafood this succulent, the Point also has a raw bar to be particularly proud of.
#3) The Causeway (78 Essex Ave. 978-281-5256)
You won't need to dress up for The Causeway, as it's distinctly unpretentious. You will, however, need to remember to bring one thing, and this is very important: an empty belly. The portions here are huge. While you won't find fancy decor or chi-chi menu items, you will find ultra-fresh, expertly cooked seafood in simply gargantuan portions. To top it off, the prices are about half what you'd expect for so much food. Plan on leftovers for lunch the next day, or bring a gaggle of friends to share.
Start with an order of buttery mussels as an appetizer, and be careful not to get too full: they're practically served in a vat. The Swordfish Tips appear often on the specials board, and they may be the best item The Causeway serves. Never fear if you don't see them. The salmon and the haddock are equally well-prepared. If you order your seafood with pasta, be prepared for a mountain of it. You will never go home hungry after a night at The Causeway! Tip: The restaurant is BYOB, but there's a liquor store next door. Be sure and pick up a bottle on the way.
Early colonials lived in Gloucester almost 400 years ago, and though our lives have little in common with them, we know they fished for their supper. While visitors to the town won't be catching their own when they dine in Gloucester's best seafood restaurants, there's no doubt that the fish they eat will be just as delicious and just as fresh.
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