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Review of Eveleigh Restaurant

Dec 21 2010 12:00 AM | rosievs  in California -----
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Does anything embody “cozy” more than a log cabin and a fireplace? Well, Nick Mathers’ Eveleigh (pronounced Everly) on the Sunset Strip, which offers both of the above, can be considered the latest strong contender among the new crop of Los Angeles-area restaurants.

In order to enter, you first step up onto the large, woodsy patio shrouded from Sunset Blvd. by a thin veil of foliage. It’s comprised of eclectic iron tables, reclaimed chairs and olive trees - the perfect place to mingle with your date before dinner or talk over drinks with friends.

The front doors leading to the central bar and indoor dining tables are wide open, welcoming all into the airy, romantic space. Directly ahead, the bar is flanked by wood and metal stools and cornered with floor to ceiling wood beams that add to the rustic ambiance. Eveleigh offers a few specialty drinks that you’ll likely be lured to try. For one, the Sazerac served neat with absinthe, rye and other goodness (i.e. bitters) is so smooth and delicious. Their version of the Dark & Stormy also appears more “gulp-able” than a cocktail should.

There is no wall of separation between this central room and the outdoor dining area to the rear, which creates an amazing flow through the entire restaurant. And from the indoor bar, the back patio appeared beautifully lit and warmly inviting – for another night with a reservation booked in advance!

Of course, you are welcome to eat at the bar without a reservation – first come, first served. The French Italian and Californian menu offers an assortment of meats, potatoes and vegetables that will satisfy most and be delivered to your table promptly. The small plates of roast butternut squash, crispy seasoned squid and Brussels sprouts are definitely three to try. The squash, which comes topped with a dollop of St. Agur blue cheese and pine nuts, is perfectly roasted and delicious served with royal trumpet mushrooms. The Brussels sprouts tossed with chopped bacon and cider offer a terrific nutty/smoky flavor and are cooked a bit on the firm side. The tender squid dish is a rather small offering with a side of lemon garlic aioli for dipping…if only the kitchen had been more generous!

While the staff is friendly and knowledgeable about Eveleigh’s food and drink, there is a definite harried-ness amongst the entire crew that may well be attributable to a brand new restaurant working out its kinks. But don’t let that stop you! The place is too interesting, the food too tasty and the players too much fun to pass up. And they played their parts well – not in that old waiter/actor or model/bartender way Los Angeles restaurants have offered up for so long. But more like hipsters working through the summer months in the Adirondacks – only in Los Angeles…and all year long.

Eveleigh is located at 8752 W. Sunset Blvd. West Hollywood, CA 90069.

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